Telluride Mountain Guides

Backcountry travel

2011-12-19T11:03:00.000-08:00

Here is a great short cartoon illustrating some important points to backcountry travel. How often do these criteria get overlooked when you are in the backcountry (skiing, snowshoeing, ice climbing, etc.)? Which characters best represent your behavior when you are in the backcountry?

Keep practicing those "shovel guitar" moves and be safe out there!

Telluride Ice Conditions continued...

2011-11-27T16:16:00.001-08:00

As promised, here are some images of Telluride ice that is slowly starting to form.

Upcoming will be images of Bear Creek and Ames. Conditions are good in Bear Creek and has already seen some traffic. Get out there if you can!

Telluride Ice conditions

2011-11-26T17:37:00.000-08:00

What we are lacking in snow, we are making up for in ice! Conditions are also continuing to improve in the Ouray/Silverton area. Check in tomorrow for some images of the ice conditions in and around Telluride.

Until then, start sharpening those tools...

Early season skiing in Wolf Creek!

2011-11-10T20:12:00.001-08:00

Winter is here! This past weekend was spent at the Wolf Creek ski resort outside of Pagosa Springs, Colorado and the snow arrived just after we did! Wolf Creek offers something for everyone: steep and accessible hike-to terrain in close proximity to moderate gladed runs and only a 3 hour drive from Telluride. While they reported around 18 inches of fresh snow, there were certainly pockets that rode deeper.

The expectation was that we would not be the only ones with the idea to storm chase, but we were pleasantly surprised to find that any crowds were quickly dispersed throughout the mountain.

Telluride also benefited from the same storm and locals were quick to jump on the opportunity to access our own resort, although without the benefit of chairlifts!

Here's to an early start to the winter ski season. Let's hope this is a good indicator of what is to come!

Alex Honnold on 60 Minutes

2011-10-04T17:12:00.000-07:00

This past Sunday 60 minutes took some time to spotlight Alex Honnold and his pursuit of dangerous and challenging solo climbs.

Highlights of the interview included outstanding video footage of Alex soloing the Sentinel in Yosemite National Park.

While most of the video footage was through Chuck Freyberger and his video production company Sender Films, 60 Minutes was able to set up several stationary cameras in different areas throughout the climb to have another view of Alex while soloing. Without a film crew attached to the camera I believe this allowed Alex to relax and the result was some great footage of one of the world's top soloists.

To accompany this segment, Alpinist magazine has also featured an article on Honnold:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/wfeature-solo-honnold

Overheard at the crag...

2011-07-27T08:11:00.001-07:00

"Your shoes should be torture chambers."

I overheard this today while climbing and thought that the topic was worth a post. I think most people have been steered in this direction when purchasing their first pair of rock shoes. Some common things people say are "They should be so tight they hurt a bit." or "Your toes should bend at the end of the shoe." While you do want your shoe to fit in a way that it gives you the ability to edge, if they are your first climbing shoes you really want them to guarantee one thing: COMFORT!

Who wants to go climbing when you are putting your feet into painful shoes? Too often I see people that have shoes two sizes too small struggling to even put pressure on their feet. When you are first starting to climb a large emphasis is on remaining in balance and engaging your legs and feet, so an appropriately sized shoe is a necessity.

There are several shoes on the market that provide all day comfort for climbers of all abilities. Here are a few:

http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/65-anasazi-moccasym

A slipper style shoe that makes it easy to take on and off at the crag. Notice at the toe that it is not too aggressive, or bent.

Here is a much more aggressive, sport climbing and bouldering specific shoe:

http://lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo.php?cat=10&cod3=230&Language=EN

A classic lace up. This style of lace up has been around for a very long time and La Sportiva has decided not to change too much about this shoe. It has lasted the test of time and continues to be a great shoe for beginners to experts. The lace up gives you the ability to loosen the shoe in order to stay comfortable throughout the day on longer days climbing.

Every brand of shoe has a bit different feel and some fit quite differently on different feet. Stop in a store and try on several before making a purchase.

And remember, keep 'em comfy!

How to rate a rock.

2011-07-13T07:24:00.000-07:00

Confused with the climbing rating system? Let's examine the rock ratings:

The Yosemite Decimal System

Class 1 - hiking or uphill walking on established areas

Class 2 - cross country with hands used for balance

Class 3 - scrambing on rocks, with hands for balance. survivable falls.

Class 4 - exposed scrambling on rocks in steep terrain with the use of a rope to prevent injury if a fall occurs.

Class 5 - climbing involving technical moves and additional equipment for protection. this is where technical climbing truly begins.

Class 5 Subdivisions

At this point ratings stay within the fifth class, but are in subdivisions that becoming gradually harder and require more technical abilities. For instance:

5.0 - 5.4 which has generally easy movements with no difficulty in selections of hand or footholds.

5.9 - 5.10 this is seens as a watermark for most climbers who are looking to "break through" to the next level of climbing. This requires thoughful and balanced movements through a series of movements based on sequence.

Summer means climbing!

2011-07-13T07:16:00.000-07:00

Thinking of visiting and climbing in Telluride? A trip to Ophir is a must.

With a great selection of climbs ranging from beginner to expert, this is an area that is truly for everyone. Just outside of Telluride, you can quickly feel as though the rest of the world is very far away. Traditional or sport climbs in a beautiful setting can make this an outing for those who may only want to spectate.

Looking forward to seeing you at the crag!

It's been a while...

2011-05-24T13:27:00.001-07:00

...but we're back!

Weather in Telluride has been anything but cooperative for those of us trying to climb. However, if you are still keen on skiing, we've had an amazing May. It seems there is always something to do, so long as you are eager to get out.

Weekend trips to Moab, Grand Junction, Durango and Denver have all had great results with temperatures in the low 70's and crowds nowhere to be seen.

A more cooperative forecast for the weekend should spotlight the beauty of Telluride for all those Mountainfilmer's (www.mountainfilm.org). Hopefully the weekend is a balance of great movies and outdoor pursuits.

Spring...?

2011-04-06T14:36:00.000-07:00

Right on cue: 55 degree days leading up to the closure of the resort and the forecast calls for snow!

While this seems to be consistent with the last few years, it's really nothing to get upset about. Unexpected snow yields some great spring backcountry skiing, with the desert being only a few hours away.

If you have even more time to spend, we've been spending some time at Shelf Road. Boasting hundreds of quality sport routes, this is a great place to get your forearms back into climbing shape.

Or try out Puox, just outside of Glenwood Springs. Another steep, gymnastic area to test your sport prowess, Puox shares similarities with it's more popular neighbor, Rifle.

Whether you're skiing or climbing, get out there and take advantage of all that's around you.

Telluride Mountain School

2011-03-13T16:04:00.000-07:00

This past Thursday and Friday the Telluride Mountain School came over to Ames to do some introductory ice climbing. With temperatures in the mid 40's, it was hardly typical conditions!

The kids showed a high level of fitness, great attitudes, and a true enjoyment of the sport. Several were adventurous enough to try climbing without tools; a skill that relies heavily on footwork and balance.

Thanks for coming out with us!

Sunshine Slabs

2011-03-04T21:38:00.000-08:00

View of the slabs from River Road/Y-11

Temperatures are climbing, so we figured we should be also!

Sunshine Slabs and the Hueco Wall are both perfect destinations for sunny, high temp days. On the Slabs, routes range from 5.8 - 5.10 and are 2-3 pitches long with sport and trad variations.

For those looking for steep and juggy, head to the Hueco Wall where you can climb through some unique sequences and get a quick pump on. Short, well protected routes ranging from 5.10 - 5.11 make for a great end of the day session.

Seems as though conditions are always perfect for something!

New website!

2011-01-28T10:10:00.001-08:00

Thanks to the hard working folks over at Telluride Websmith, TMG now has an updated website! With links to our blog and all the outdoor activities that we offer, making reservations has never been easier.

Check out the new design and feel free to send us feedback: we love hearing from you!

www.telluridemountainguides.com

Clear skies and dry tools

2011-01-28T09:50:00.000-08:00

With the temperatures on the rise and no snow in the immediate future, it's time to do some dry tooling!

Here are a few lines that we climbed the other day: a direct finish and a more "youthful" alteration. Although a little dirty, the climbing was still extremely fun and sustained. Switching between solid ice and rock creates a totally different way of choosing your lines and at times you can find yourself with tools over your shoulder making full on rock climbing moves!

Keep getting out there and having fun, whatever the conditions present!

The Ribbon

2011-01-19T17:29:00.000-08:00

Image taken from www.mountainproject.com

With high expectations for conditions, we were unfortunately shut down today on an attempt at the Ribbon (WI4). Sixty MPH winds and increasing snowfall made conditions a bit more dicey than preferred. The ice was tough to turn away from!

Not to be shut down completely, the Ouray Ice Park made for a fun alternative. While many of the routes have been a bit chopped out, there are still prize lines to be found.

Returning to Telluride, we found more high winds and snow. May be time to switch the tools for some skis tomorrow...

Pineapple Express vs. Ouray Ice Festival

2011-01-07T09:18:00.000-08:00

This weekend Ouray will be hosting the 2011 Ouray Ice Festival, but it was a close one. With the unusual temperatures up until this weekend the Ice Park has only been partially open, with just the School Room and Kids Wall open to visitors.

However, through plenty of hard work, the park will be up and ready to host some world class climbers. At the festival you will find a huge range of spectators; those with no experience on ice rubbing elbows with some athletes who have made this passion their profession.

Highlights include guest speakers each night, a zombie party sponsored by Petzl, and the competition on Saturday. Throughout the weekend full day seminars and half day clinics are put on by the sponsors and their athletes; a unique way to learn with the most up to date gear.

For more information check out their website: http://ourayicefestival.com/

If you're in the area we will see you there!

Ice, Ice, Baby!

2010-12-15T10:54:00.001-08:00

While the snow is only starting to fall once again, ice has been forming fat for the last few weeks. This weekend we had the opportunity to take a few friends from the Franz Klammer Lodge out to Ames for a day of introductory ice climbing. Temperatures were balmy (40 degrees) and the lower falls were a pleasant WI2+.

Basic ice climbing techniques were explained, implemented, and enjoyed by all. Thanks for coming out and sharing the great conditions!

Photo by Mike Clemens

Some Telluride Ice Conditions:

Lower Ames: Left side - IN

Right side - Still flowing, but forming nicely. (Photo above)

Upper Ames: Still flowing.

Ames Ice Hose: IN - Ice on pitch 1 and 3, pitch 2 still dry.

Bear Creek: IN and forming beautifully. Steeper pitches getting a bit chopped out... Warm temperatures this past weekend saw things softening by 12:00 pm.

Matthes Crest Traverse, 5.7, Tuolumne Meadows, CA

2010-11-10T12:53:00.000-08:00

Matthes Crest has been sought after as the most enjoyable and exciting traverse in the area. A solid 3 miles of hiking brings you from the busy highway of Tuolumne Meadows to a spectacular basin highlighting the Matthes Crest. Usually this hike, while pleasant, discourages many from traveling out to this secluded treat.

Most approach this traverse from South to North, with two pitches of easy granite to gain access to the traverse. Once on the ridge you are treated to plenty of easy scrambling mixed with several areas of exposure. Once summiting the lower peak, you can scramble down to the notch between the two summits. From here, the best (and most engaging) of the climbing places you at the summit. From the lower notch you will be able to spot several slings to rap from.

Yosemite Valley

2010-10-21T07:36:00.000-07:00

I've just recently returned from a few weeks on the road traveling from Yosemite to Joshua Tree sampling some world class climbing. Here are a few photos:

El Cap.

On the way up Zodiac.

After deciding to turn around based on 95 degree heat, we narrowly missed being drenched in a storm later on that afternoon. This YouTube video shows a group that was climbing Zodiac above us and another party to our right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pf5PgVstnPw

More to come!

Sunny skies in Ophir

2010-09-02T19:54:00.000-07:00

With each day beginning with a chill in the air and the occasional dusting of snow on Ajax, we are reminded that our days of summer are coming to a close...

...but not quite yet.

Once the sun has had a chance to cut through the cool morning air it begins to feel like summer still has a some punch left. The last few days in Telluride have been sunny and warm, and with more of the same in the forecast it will no doubt be difficult for Film Festival participants to stay indoors.

Here are a few shots from Ophir where the light stays on the wall until the early evening. Gymnastic and thoughtful sport routes on 15 minutes from Telluride.

Raining day reads

2010-08-01T02:54:00.000-07:00

If you are battling some disagreeable weather, here are some titles that we would like to suggest:

Tomaz Humar by Bernadette McDonald
Provides a rare look inside the mind of one of the most contraversial personalities in climbing. Spotlights his high risk rescue from Nanga Parbat in 2005 and his rise from climbing in Slovenia to being touted as "the best in the world" by Reinhold Messner.
A quick read and an interesting look at the perspectives surrounding his climbing career.

The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner
A comprehensive outline to further your climbing through mental preparation. Arno takes his own experiences and illustrates several techniques that can be used on their own or together to take your climbing to the next level.
A useful tool for anyone looking to "break through". His concepts can be applied to all physical activities, not only climbing.

Eiger Dreams by Jon Krakauer
A collection of articles printed earlier in different magazines, this is a unique glimpse in to the lives of those climbers and mountaineers who have helped push boundaries and develop this lifestyle.
Easy to read in piecemeal as each story is concise and enjoyable on its own.

Keep hoping for sunny skies...

Back online!

2010-07-23T09:49:00.000-07:00

After too long of a break, we're back online!

As the summer continues on we hope that you are taking advantage of cooperative weather and beautiful locations. Currently, we have several guides traveling throughout the world sampling a range of adventures and returning ready to share their experiences.

Whether it is the desert or the mountains, be sure to enjoy each opportunity as it is presented, because you never know when the next rainy day may be building.

See you at the crag!

A room with a view...

2010-05-13T08:19:00.001-07:00

Sometimes the payoff isn't necessarily the summit. This was early morning on the way to climb Ancient Art from the Fischer Tower camp grounds. Beautiful temps and sunny skies are a sure cure for the off season blues.

Get outside and play!

Desert Dust

2010-04-05T10:23:00.001-07:00

Whether it's Paradox sport or Indian Creek cracks, changing temperatures are ideal for midday climbs that may be too warm to climb during the summer months. Currently our guides are finalizing plans for their own trips to the desert and we think you should too!

With the ski area closed for the season, our thoughts have turned to climbing in the desert and the current layer of "Moab dust" on the snowpack only acts a reminder that the sandstone cliffs are but 2 hours away...

How should my ice climbing boots fit?

2010-03-11T11:01:00.000-08:00

A frequent question asked by many people as they are lacing up their boots or planning on purchasing a pair themselves.

While there is no cut and dry answer, there are some details you can pay attention to in order to ensure a proper fit.

Ask yourself:

Are they warm? You'll be in these boots for several hours and in some cases, a full day. Providing warmth will keep you happy and focused on your climbing rather than how cold your feet are becoming. Look for a boot that will also stay dry in wetter situations.

Which brand fits best? Not all boots fit the same. Some are tailored to those with a narrow fit, others are tailored for those with a wider fit. Try several on and spend some time walking around the store to get a good feeling for "problem" areas. Proper circulation will keep your feet warm.

Be wary if you have too much space in the front of your boot. Once you start kicking in to the ice you'll quickly find your toes slamming forward with this additional space.

What kind of climbing am I going to be doing? Boots come in a variety of styles specific to the activity you'll be using them for. Will you be climbing single pitch mixed climbs? Putting up a new WI 10? Does your goal have a 30 minute or 3 hour approach? All of these questions will help in your selection.

Am I really going to be wearing these socks? Take whatever type of socks you'll be wearing during your climb with you to try on your boots. No sense in finding a perfect fit while you're wearing a pair of ankle socks!

Consider these details next time you're sizing up for some boots and even if you're not searching for a pair today, try on a few!

An easy top out...

2010-03-02T11:09:00.000-08:00

Can you place this image?

This is the "main" boulder at the Mine and the small amount that is visible is the top out. The rest has been covered by the debris from the recent Ajax slide.

*No Boulderers were injured in this photo*

A change in scenery...

2010-02-09T11:27:00.001-08:00

With the last few days being gray and cloudy, we thought that a reminder of the summer months might be in order. Moab is a short 2 hour drive from our home here in Telluride and provides easy access to some fantastic desert climbing.

These images are of Owl Rock and Ancient Art, which are both located in Arches National Park. Owl Rock is a moderate two pitch route that takes you to the summit and with easy access (visible from the parking area) and should not be missed.

Ancient Art is a short 25 minute hike that passes several other climbs and as you can see from the photo, has an adventurous final pitch.

Just outside town, you can easily get to both and make it back to Milts for a burger and shake before driving back to Telluride.

Some other ice in the area...

2010-01-27T12:55:00.001-08:00

Bridalveil Falls

Ames Ice Hose, early morning.

Bear Creek Falls

2010-01-27T09:16:00.000-08:00

The snow is falling! Keep your fingers crossed for some accumulation. In the meantime, here are some images of Bear Creek from early season ice and sunny days...

The Beginning...

2010-01-26T21:08:00.001-08:00

We are up and running! Please stay tuned as we continue to update our blog and add new details.

In the meantime, here's a few images of the Lower Falls in Ames from 1.20.10

Conditions were great!

choosing to avoid the steeper bit...this time.

starting up the first section...

a great mixed start up the center rock leads to a pleasant "staircase" of ice to the right.

one more move to the exit!